Microdermabrasion vs Microneedling: My Two Favorite Fountain of Youth Treatments
It all begins with an idea.
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Microdermabrasion Aftercare
Paula's Choice CLEAR Pore Salicylic Acid Face Cleanser
Olay Complete Fragrence-Free Broad Spectrum SPF 40 Face Moisturizer
Microneedling Aftercare
Perricone MD Hypoallergenic Clean Correction Barrier Repair
Nanoneedling Tool
Sergand Derma Pen
When I was younger, about 14 years old, I had what 90’s culture at the time likes to call a “pizza face” (yup, that bad). My acne was intense, and it seemed like nothing was helping. My dermatologist at the time, always on the ball, suggested I try microdermabrasion as its minimally invasive and helps clear out my pores and tackle the acne. Now, back in the day, they didn’t have the fancy diamond tipped microdermabrasion pen (now industry standard) you see today. They used an old-school machine that blasted micro-crystals onto your face, then immediately sucked them back up—along with all the dirt and grime buried in your pores. The procedure works by removing dead skin cells from the skin's surface and top layer, promoting skin renewal and improving overall texture.
Let me tell you, when I saw the tube that sucked up those little crystals, I was shocked. It was black—black as night, filled with all the dirt, oil, and debris my pores had been hanging onto. It was a wake-up call.
The Acne to Anti-Aging Evolution: How Microdermabrasion Helped My Skin
As time went on and my breakouts started to clear up—thanks to a combination of products and regular microdermabrasion sessions—I realized something. The treatment wasn’t just clearing out my pores; it was also giving me smoother skin and fading acne scars. I felt like I stumbled onto a price friendly anti-aging process that now looking back, it kept me swimming in the fountain of youth for many years. It helped to gently resurface my face, tackling those superficial lines and imperfections that hadn’t fully set in yet as well as kept that liquid gold, collagen, in tact.
Glow Facts:
Microdermabrasion can be done on multiple areas, including the face and neck.
People with sunburn or active acne breakout may need to delay microdermabrasion treatments.
Microdermabrasion Recovery: What Comes After the Machine
Recovering from microdermabrasion is way easier—and gentler—than most people expect. Here’s what’s typically involved:
What to Expect Immediately After:
Your skin will look pink or flushed and feel tight or tender, similar to a mild sunburn—usually fading in 1-2ish days.
There's little to no downtime—you can return to your daily routine almost immediately.
Day 1 to 3:
Use only gentle, fragrance‑free cleansers and moisturizer—your skin can be super sensitive, so skip harsh actives like retinol, AHAs, or benzoyl peroxide for at least 48–72 hours.
Avoid strenuous exercise, saunas, hot showers, or excessive sweating—these can irritate the freshly exfoliated skin.
Hydrate well, both internally and externally. Hyaluronic acid–rich moisturizers, occlusive balms with panthenol, or aloe-based hydration masks are game changers for soothing and barrier repair.
Daily SPF 30+ is essential—because microdermabrasion increases photosensitivity.
Day 4 to 7:
Mild flaking or dryness (I love the shedding process! I mean thats what I'm paying for right?... a whole new face, lol) of the outer layers of the epidermis is normal as your skin renews itself and peels away gently over the week.
After about 4 days, you can consider gradually reintroducing mild actives, starting with sensitive-targeted ingredients only if your skin feels stable.
Long-Term Care:
Plan follow-up microdermabrasion sessions every 4–6 weeks to maintain results like improved texture, softened fine lines, and enhanced radiance.
Keep consistent with sun protection, hydration, and a simple skincare routine to preserve the benefits and maintain healthy that healthy glow.
Diamond Microdermabrasion vs Crystal Microdermabrasion.
Thinking about microdermabrasion? It pays to know the difference between the older crystal-based microdermabrasion and the modern diamond-tip wand microdermabrasion device. Here's what savvy skincare pros, me—and recent research—say:
Crystal Microdermabrasion (Old School)
Blasts fine particles like aluminum oxide or magnesium oxide crystals onto your face, then vacuums them away—with the exfoliated dead cells attached.
It often feels rougher and can be messy—slippery crystals sometimes linger on the on and side your pores afterward.
Because crystals can potentially stick around or even linger on the face, they’ve occasionally been linked with increased pore blockage and irritation—not ideal for sensitive or blemish-prone skin.
Diamond Tip Microdermabrasion (Modern Standard)
The modern diamond tip wand device uses a textured diamond-coated microdermabrasion wand instead of loose crystals. The diamond tip pen gently buffes away dead cells while a vacuum simultaneously removes debris—no stray grainy crystals involved.
Provides more control and precision, making it safer for delicate areas like under the eyes or around the mouth.
Because it's a crystal-free method, there’s less risk of residue or pore clogging. It’s also considered safer and more hygienic overall.
Why Diamond Microdermabrasion Has Become the Industry Standard
Cleaner and safer—no stray crystals, less mess, and better for sensitive skin
More precise exfoliation control, customizable pressure and intensity
Better post-treatment safety—no risk of crystal residue lingering in pores
Bottom line: If you're booking a microdermabrasion session today, look for the diamond-tip version. It’s the gold standard in modern skincare—gentler, cleaner, and more precise.
Fast Forward 15 Years: Microneedling to Take it Up a Notch
Fast-forward about 15 years and 60 microdermabrasions procedures later, and I found myself at a crossroads. My anti-aging game needed an upgrade. As the years went by, those pesky lines and wrinkles I’d once been able to smooth away with microdermabrasion were starting to really become a main character in my life. Plus, I noticed my collagen—the magic ingredient that keeps skin plump—wasn’t being replenished as quickly as it once was. That’s when my beauty guru, a NYC esthetician I was seeing for many years, recommended it was time to step up my game and she introduced microneedling into my routine. It was a stronger, more intense process that helped me tackle the deeper signs of aging keep my face feeling fresh and youthful.
Microdermabrasion to Microneedling: It Was Time to Level Up
Let’s talk microneedling—a treatment that sounds a little intense (needles?!) but has become my #1 anti-aging secret over the past five years. Out of all the treatments I’ve tried for smoother skin, fewer lines, and that elusive “glow,” this is the one process that has truly delivered.
If you’ve ever looked in the mirror and thought, “Where did that line come from?” or “Why does my face look… tired?”—this might just be your new best friend.
Microneedling isn’t hype. It’s collagen-boosting, texture-smoothing, fine line-blurring magic—and yes, I’m calling it the modern-day fountain of youth.
What Is Microneedling, Really?
Unlike microdermabrasion, microneedling uses a device with ultra-fine needles to create tiny, controlled injuries (aka micro-channels) in the skin. This stimulates your body’s natural healing response, boosting the production of collagen and elastin—the proteins that keep your skin firm, plump, and youthful. Microneedling is also known as collagen induction therapy, as it creates micro-injuries that stimulate natural dermal regeneration and dermal remodeling for improved texture, elasticity, and firmness.
Basically, you’re tricking your skin into turning back the clock using its own built-in repair system.
What Microneedling Can Do:
Softens fine lines and wrinkles
Improves texture and tone
Reduces the appearance of scars and enlarged pores
Fades hyperpigmentation and sun damage
Reduces the appearance of dark spots
Boosts the absorption and effectiveness of skincare products
The best part? These results build over time. As your dermal regeneration kicks in, your skin keeps improving weeks after each session, helping you achieve desired results such as skin tightening and rejuvenation.
P.S. Microneedling also helps with hair loss by boosting the absorption of topicals, and it’s often used to improve the look of stretch marks.
Microneedling Recovery (It’s Not That Bad!)
Don’t let the word “needling” scare you—the recovery is surprisingly minimal. Right after a session, you’ll likely experience redness, tightness, and a little sensitivity (like a sunburn), which usually fades within 2–4 days. Compared to other cosmetic treatments, microneedling offers a relatively short recovery time and minimal downtime.
Pro Tips for Recovery:
Skip everything for 24h hours
Skip makeup for 24–48 hours
Avoid actives (retinol, AHAs, vitamin C) for a few days
Hydrate generously after 24hrs with hyaluronic acid and/or vitamin rich barrier-repairing products
Wear SPF—every single day, no exceptions
Microneedling is suitable for a variety of skin conditions, including acne scarring, making it a versatile option in cosmetic treatments.
Microneedling vs. Microneedling with PRP vs. Exosomes
There are a few advanced versions of microneedling that take your results even further. Here’s a quick breakdown:
Standard Microneedling
Uses a professional pen to create micro-channels.
Triggers natural collagen and elastin production.
Great for texture, pores, fine lines, and acne scars.
When performed in a dermatologist's office, professional devices can penetrate deeper into the skin and provide more effective results than at-home devices.
Microneedling with PRP (Platelet-Rich Plasma)
Also known as the “vampire facial”
Your own blood is drawn, spun in a centrifuge to isolate the plasma, and applied during microneedling.
PRP is rich in growth factors that accelerate healing and improve skin regeneration.
Ideal for deeper wrinkles, scarring, and dull skin.
Microneedling with Exosomes
Exosomes are tiny messengers derived from stem cells (usually plant or lab-created).
They’re applied during or after microneedling to deliver powerful regenerative signals.
Often even more effective than PRP at promoting collagen, elastin, and cellular repair.
Results can be faster and more dramatic with less inflammation.
Microneedling, PRP, and Exosomes: What’s the Difference?
Standard Microneedling is great for improving texture, fine lines, and early signs of aging. It’s the most common and affordable option. You’ll likely experience 3–5ish days (sometimes longer) of mild redness and tightness.
Microneedling with PRP takes it a step further by using your own blood (spun to separate the plasma) to supercharge healing and dermal regeneration. It’s ideal for deeper wrinkles, scarring, and dull skin. The price is higher, but downtime is faster than standard microneedling—around 2–4ish days.
Microneedling with Exosomes is the most advanced (and most expensive) option. Exosomes are stem-cell–derived messengers that encourage cell repair and renewal. This version offers faster, more dramatic results with less inflammation and only 1–2ish days of redness.
Tips to Get the Most Out of Microneedling
Microneedling is a form of skin resurfacing that can address a variety of skin conditions, including scars, wrinkles, and enlarged pores.
Most people are a good candidate for microneedling, but if you have certain skin conditions (like active acne, eczema, or a sunburn), consult a professional before treatment.
Always go to a licensed esthetician or medical pro. Depth matters—and so does technique.
Commit to a series. For real change, aim for 3–6 treatments spaced 6-8 weeks apart.
Be gentle afterward. Baby your skin—this is not the time for exfoliants or aggressive treatments.
Use quality skincare. Post-microneedling is when your products absorb deeper. Think: hydrating serums, peptides, and barrier repair creams.
What About Nanoneedling?
Let’s talk about nanoneedling—a gentler, no-downtime alternative that’s perfect between pro treatments.
Nanoneedling uses ultra-shallow silicone-tipped pins or needles, 0.25mm or less, that don’t puncture the skin but instead create nano-channels. This helps to enhance product absorption without any downtime. It’s non-invasive and safe for at-home use, making it a gentle option to use 1–2 times per week. While it doesn’t trigger collagen production like traditional microneedling, it’s excellent for brightening your skin’s glow, adding hydration, and improving product absorption. It’s particularly effective for dullness, dryness, and mild texture issues. It’s painless, requires no downtime, and gives you an immediate glow—great before an event or between microneedling sessions.
I’ve had great results using the Sergand Derma Pen for at-home nanoneedling. But if you’re going above 0.25mm, I highly recommend seeing a licensed esthetician—anything deeper moves into true microneedling territory.
Risks and Side Effects: What You Need to Know Before You Book
Before you dive into the world of microneedling or microdermabrasion to treat acne scars, enlarged pores, it’s important to get real about the potential risks and side effects. While both treatments are considered safe procedures for most people and can work wonders for improving skin texture, fading fine lines, and giving you that youthful appearance, there are a few things you should know to make sure you get the optimal results you’re after.
Microneedling is a minimally invasive treatment that uses tiny needles to stimulate collagen production and improve the appearance of acne scars, stretch marks, surgical scars, and wrinkles. Most people experience some temporary redness, swelling, or mild flaking in the treated area—think of it as a sun-kissed flush that usually fades within a few hours to a couple of days. However, if aftercare instructions aren’t followed (like skipping sunscreen or using harsh products too soon), there’s a small risk of infection, scarring, or even skin discoloration. This is especially true for those with darker skin tones, who may notice temporary darkened skin or uneven skin tone after the procedure. The good news? These side effects are rare when you work with a skilled healthcare provider and stick to gentle, topical skin treatments post-procedure.
Microdermabrasion is generally a safe procedure with minimal downtime, but it’s not completely risk-free. Some people may notice mild redness, irritation, or sensitivity right after treatment, especially if they have sensitive skin or specific skin concerns. In rare cases, if the treated area isn’t properly protected from sun exposure or harsh products, you might see uneven skin tone or darkened skin—particularly if you have a darker skin tone. That’s why wearing sunscreen and following your provider’s aftercare advice is non-negotiable for maintaining those microdermabrasion results and avoiding unwanted side effects.
Nanoneedling is generally very low risk—when done correctly. Always stick to needle depths of 0.25mm or less. Anything deeper becomes true microneedling and should only be performed by a licensed professional. When misused, even gentle tools can lead to minor irritation, redness, or sensitivity. In some cases, applying heavy or overly active products right after can clog pores or overwhelm the epidermis. To stay safe, always start with clean skin, keep your routine simple afterward, and limit use to just one or two times a week. When in doubt, less is more.
No matter which treatment you choose, the best way to minimize risks and get the most out of your sessions is to see a qualified dermatologist, esthetician or experienced healthcare provider. They’ll assess your unique skin concerns—whether you’re looking to treat acne scars, fade age spots, or improve skin texture—and tailor the procedure to your skin type and tone. Plus, they’ll give you the right pre- and post-treatment instructions to keep your skin firm, healthy, and glowing.
Bottom line: With the right provider and a little extra care (hello, daily SPF and gentle skincare!), you can safely enjoy the benefits of microneedling or microdermabrasion—like smoother skin, fewer fine lines, and a more even skin tone—while keeping side effects to a minimum.
My Take: Use Both!
Think of microdermabrasion and microneedling as your collagen-boosting, skin-transforming powerhouse. You’ll see major changes in fine lines, texture, and firmness.
Nanoneedling is your maintenance buddy. It’s gentle, glow-inducing, and keeps your face in great shape between professional treatments.
Together? They’re a skin-reviving dream team.
Final Thoughts
Microdermabrasion and Microneedling has been a game-changer in my skincare routine—and after five years from transitioning from microdermabrasion to microneedling, I can confidently say i have a tight grip on the fountain of youth ounce again. My face is smoother, my fine lines are softer, and that tired look I used to see in the mirror? Way less noticeable.
Whether you’re starting slow with microdermabrasion and nanoneedling, or diving into deeper with microneedling treatments with PRP or exosomes, microneedling is one of the most effective ways to retrain your youthful appearance again.
P.S. please go to a qualified healthcare provider, dermatologist, or esthetician for your microdermabrasion or microneedling. There are too many bad microneedling outcomes floating around the internet from unlicensed techs or DIY attempts.
Stay Smooth.
—Brian
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